March-ing through Jordan

The symbolism of pancake day has certainly changed over the centuries, but its date in the Christian calendar still defines the beginning of lent, and the fasting of Christian people. As March began with this celebratory event, April begins with that of Ramadan, and the fasting of Muslims across the world. As is customary, I have (attempted) to give up chocolate for this year’s lent, which has generally been going well. But as Ramadan and Lent overlap this year, it is becoming increasing difficult to stay away from chocolate during the iftar (fast breaking) celebrations in Jordan.

The beginning of March was, what I can only describe as ‘plagued’,by end of semester exams, final projects, and revision. Trips to my favourite dessert shop ‘Fayrouz’ in Weibdeh were needed, where I had to buy two pastries because of the minimum card spend.That was a real bummer. Cafes, cafes, and cafes were visited throughout the week, before a group trip to the firm favourite ‘Baab Al-Yemen’ (Door of Yemen) for a friend’s birthday.

Work trips have increased over the past month, as I write and commission more articles for the English-speaking newspaper The Jordan Times. Events hosted by the Royal Film Commission empowered women and the voices of the otherwise underrepresented, and I heard talks from some of Jordan’s television personalities. One event included a trip to The Rainbow Theatre in Jabal Amman, where the film ‘Ghosts of Afghanistan’ followed a former War Correspondent on his return to the country, just before the Taliban regained control last year. The film was commissioned for the Berlin Human Rights Film Festival and is really worth a watch – you can find it on YouTube.

The end of the semester was a celebration, with many a drink had and finally a time for my friends and me to rest. The festivities did not last for long, however, as the arrival of my family into the Kingdom was a long-awaited respite from regular life, and instead, enjoying the life of a tourist.

My family’s trip to Jordan lasted 10 days, and is something that I am going to go into more depth about in another blog post (so stay tuned for next blog),as I want to recommend theirtrip to others who are interested in coming to Jordan for tourism.

Our plan began in Amman, where we visited my favourite cafes, dessert shops and bars in Jabal Lweibdeh, before exploring the riches that Downtown has to offer. The crowded souqs were a world away from Sunday markets at home, from which we found relief in exploring Amman’s roman ruins of the Amphitheatre and the Citadel. Amman’s weather did not treat us kindly, and shelter was found in restaurants along Rainbow Street, cafes in Weibdeh, and at one point, the famous King Abdullah Mosque.

To escape the flooded streets of Amman we fled to the serenity of the Dead Sea, which was much more to my sister’s liking. Covering ourselves in mud, we enjoyed a relaxing stay by the lowest point on Earth, before heading further South to Jordan’s ‘Golden Triangle’.

On the way to the rose red city of Petra, you can find the likes of Shoubak Castle and Tafileh, which are set amongst an unchanged landscape. The castle itself is not set withincivilization and is atop a hill – very exposed to the elements. However, the dominance ofthe castle must have been extraordinary in its time, and much of its internal structure can be configured. Petra itself is the diamond in Jordan’s already bejewelled tourism crown, and is a lot more extensive than one would think. Not only do you see the Treasury, but the entire city of rock carvings with its inhabitants. Petra by Night is an additional cost to your ticket, but is definitely worth it for the sheer beauty which it beholds.

Wadi Rum was the next step on our adventure, with its film star location and vast, endless sandbanks, you can see why people say it is similar to life on Mars. Here, you can stay in a wide variety of camps, easily found on popular holiday booking websites. Activities in Wadi Rum vary, but jeep rides round its extensive desert take you to some of its highlights, and a star gazing trip can also be taken depending on the camps abilities. That, or you can take it old-style and hop on the back of a camel or two.

Aqaba was the final stop on my family’s adventure across the historical lands of Jordan. Many love Aqaba, but if you’re not exactly a beach lover like me, it’s not for you. In my opinion, it is the Arab answer to Benidorm, but with a hint of class. You will find many popular chains in Aqaba, and the Ayla resort is certainly for those who like to shop fancy, or see what boats have come into the port. Although we didn’t, there is the option to do boat rides in the Red Sea. These usually include snorkelling or diving, and some may even serve you some good grub!

What then beckoned us was the journey back to Amman for one final night, before a rather early flight for my family. We quickly visited my flat, which is not in an area of particular interest, but still not too far away from the sights. A trip to Hashem’s in Downtown had to be on the cards before we finished the night in Books @ Café on Rainbow Street, slowly watching the city come to life for its night time shift.

Returning to school has made getting back into the routine hard, but the last semester lies in front of me, and for the first time, the end to my time in Jordan is almost in sight. There is still plenty to see and enjoy here, and I write this as Ramadan celebrations begin in the country, and trips over the next few weekends are already booked. Here’s to one final semester in this country I may accidentally keep calling home when on the phone to my Mam.